food

The Best Pizza in Rome by Marco Secchi


From pizza al taglio (by the slice) to the classic roman style to the latest installments of the gourmet type, Rome certainly isn’t short of options if you’re looking to feast on pizza.


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What you should also know is that there are a few ‘rules’ you should stick to when seated at a pizzeria in the eternal city. If you’re more of a ‘do as the Romans do‘ follow these tips:

1) Romans have dinner (not lunch) at a pizzeria. There are a few (authentic) places that serve pizza during the day, but for the most part and culturally, sit-down pizza is an evening affair.

2) Beer is the preferred beverage accompaniment.

3) Start the meal off with fritti. Fried snacks are the way to kick of a pizza dinner.

4) Don’t ask for your pizza to be cut. At some of the gourmet joints it’s common for a pizza to land at the table cut but otherwise, pizza in Italy is a cut-it-yourself kind of affair.

Our favourite places for the best slice about town:

Giulietta (Testaccio)

The best thing about Giulietta is that you can take your pick from the paper-thin roman style to the thicker lip classic Neapolitan. Prized ingredients come from Cristina Bowerman’s kitchen and the combinations delight with things like mortadella and pistacchio and even clams and mussels. The fritti are fantastic especially the zeppola (fried donut) with honey and lardo. (Piazza dell’Emporio 28)

Seu Illuminati (Trastevere)

My new favourite in Rome is the young and exciting Seu Illuminati in my very own Trastevere. Pier Daniele is the name on everyone’s lips and has been for at least the last year. Gourmet pizza at its very best with a thick lip and anything from tuna tartare to porchetta to a deconstructed capricciosa. The fried starters also impress with seasonal changes to keep it interesting. (Via Angelo Bargoni 10-18)

Da Remo (Testaccio)

If all the staff weren’t Laziali (fans of Roma’s arch rival team, Lazio!), I would say this is my favourite neighbourhood pizzeria in all of Rome. Many Romans agree! The pizza is perfectly roman: thin, charred and not a perfect round and I come here for the Margherita. Located in the foodie hub of Testaccio, the clientele at Da Remo is mainly local. (Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice 44?)

Emma (Campo de’ Fiori)

The great thing about Emma (aside from the food!) is that you can make a booking. This may sound strange to you, but until recently you couldn’t book at a pizzeria – in fact you still can’t at all the old-school ones. They make it roman style and you can sit indoors or outdoors and they are one of the rare places open for pizza at lunch. Their patanegra topped one is nothing short of amazing. (Via del Monte Della Farina 28)

Ai Marmi (Trastevere)

A Trastevere (and Roman) institution, the real name of this bustling pizzeria is Pannatoni but locals know it a L’Orbitorio (the morgue) or AI Marmi (marble table tops) in reference to the long marble tables. I love the old school lit-up menu sign and while I believe the pizza quality has slightly (just!) gone down, I maintain they make some of the best fritti in town! Especially baccalà. There is always a line (which moves fairly quickly) and be prepared to sit elbow-to-elbow. (Viale di Trastevere 53)

Sbanco (Appio Latino / Zama)

I’m a big fan of Stefano Callegari. There I said it! How can you not admire someone who stuffs burrata into pizza bianca? I’m addicted to his Trapizzino but his Pizzeria in Piazza Zama area is on my very-much-approved list too! And here you can combine your love for pizza and carbonara and try all the other perfectly matched and baked pizzas and fritti. (Via Siria 1)

Da Ivo (Trastevere)

This place often lands on the where not to eat lists of Rome but it’s in my ‘hood and I can assure you that the pizza is good. I didn’t say it’s the best in Rome but the staff are typically pizzeria-boisterous and the fritti and pizza is very good quality. My fave is the Pizza del Vecchio (tomato, eggplant, parmigiano and guanciale). Also, they take bookings – like I said earlier, a plus! (Via di San Francesco a Ripa 158?)

I Supplì (Trastevere)

My local hole-in-the-wall takeaway joint makes the best marinara pizza by the slice in Rome. Big call. I challenge you to find a better one and let me know! Here at any time to day you’re bound to find anywhere between 3-6 different types of pizza that you can buy by weight. Another favourite of mine is the zucchini one with chilli and smoked mozzarella. As their name suggests, they’re also famous for supplì! (Via di San Francesco a Ripa 137)

Pizzarium (Cipro)

A list of Rome’s best pizza wouldn’t be complete without Bonci. The man behind Pizzarium, a number of bakeries around town and a stand at Mercato Centrale was hailed as the Michelangelo of Pizza years ago by the New York Times. His pizza by the slice is as famous for being flirtatious with ingredients and the slabs sit pretty on the bench looking like works of art. (Via della Meloria 43)

Where to eat in Rome by Marco Secchi

Eating in the Eternal City needn’t mean tourist menus and pricey pizza. These handy trattorias and wine bars will still leave some change for the Trevi fountain. No matter which restaurants you choose from this list, you’ll be eating some of the city’s finest food in an unpretentious setting. Buon appetito!


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Armando al Pantheon

Armando is a no-frills trattoria of the kind that once was common in Rome but now is like gold dust, especially when its location is taken into account—just a few yards from an A-league attraction. A recent renovation has spruced up the interior but all the hallmarks of authenticity remain, including indifferent artworks and wonderfully friendly service from the family that has run it since 1961. The menu sticks with tried-and-tested Roman pasta and meat classics executed with love by smiley chef Claudio Gargioli. Unusually attentive to special dietary requirements, they will gladly substitute in gluten-free pasta.

La Pergola

Heinz Beck is, without a doubt, the most talented chef in Rome, with three—merited—Michelin stars. His technical dexterity and unerring instinct for taste and texture combinations never fail to impress. The setting for La Pergola, on the top floor of the Cavalieri hotel with its panoramic view over the city, is simply breathtaking. But what emerges from Beck’s kitchen (every dish dictated by seasonal availability) is equally so: amberjack tartare with tomato mousse and olives, potato gnocchi with caviar and chives or sea bass with olive oil-marinated vegetables are infinitely more sophisticated than they sound. The remarkable cellars are said to hold 53,000 bottles;

Da Enzo al 29

Don’t expect a long, leisurely experience at this diminutive family-run trattoria. Space is limited, the noise level is high and the service is fast and furious, but for typical cucina romana it is a reliable and atmospheric option. Prices are a little above the average, but the quality of ingredients is assured and there is a nice selection of lesser-known Lazio wines. Bookings are taken, but only for the early evening seating so to catch one of the outside tables get there for an early lunch or be prepared to join a very long queue.

Bonci Pizzarium

Rome’s revolutionary pizza maker Gabriele Bonci started his astronomic rise to stardom at this unassuming pizza shop and it has consistently remained top of the list of Rome’s best pizza al taglio. The focus on the perfect dough and only the best, seasonal ingredients, along with a creative eye for toppings, have deservedly seen the Bonci brand expand across the city. Despite a recent renovation to double the size of the shop, the place is usually heaving, so join the throng and eat on the pavement outside. The location near the entrance to the Vatican Museums is ideal for a post-Sistine Chapel carb fix.

Cul de Sac

Rome’s first ever wine bar, the Cul de Sac was founded in 1977. Looking very traditional nowadays, it’s cramped inside and out, with long pine benches and tables, and is decidedly simple. But the location—just off piazza Navona, with a ringside view of the ‘talking’ statue of Pasquino—coupled with fairly reasonable prices and an encyclopaedic wine list, ensures full occupancy all the time. The food is standard wine-bar fare including a selection of home-made pa^te´s as well as generous sharing plates of cured meats and cheeses.

Antico Arco

The minimalist yet warm interior of Patrizia Mattei’s Gianicolo restaurant provides the perfect backdrop for sampling the carefully creative menu, which changes according to the season. Although prices have risen somewhat in recent years, Antico Arco remains steadfast in its popularity and reputation. The seven-course degustazione menu is good value and the wine list offers up some sensibly priced gems. Until 6pm there is also a fixed finger food menu of miniature versions of the main dishes. Book well in advance.

Fatamorgana

Organic, no additives, gluten-free and superb: the wonderful gelato whipped up by Maria Agnese Spagnuolo for her Fatamorgana mini-chain (and previously only available in the ’burbs) can now be found in several new easily accessible centro storico locations, including this one in the hip Monti district’s pretty piazza degli Zingari. There are all the classic flavours (with twists), plus specialities such as black cherries and beer, pears and gorgonzola, and baklava.

Li Rioni

A hit with locals and tourists alike, Li Rioni churns out wafer-thin pizza romana from its wood-fired oven at an impressive rate, and at more-than-reasonable prices given its location just a short stroll from the Colosseum. The (slightly kitsch) interior is decked out like a Roman street with shuttered windows and terracotta hues, and in summer extra tables are set up outside on the pavement. Expect it to be packed and very noisy; exactly as a Roman pizzeria should be.

Trattoria Monti

This upmarket trattoria is more difficult to get into than many top restaurants—so book well in advance. The reasons for its popularity are simple: friendly service and ambience, excellent food and a huge wine list with reasonable markups. The cuisine, like the family that runs the place, is from the region of Le Marche, so meat, fish and game all feature on the menu. Vegetarians are well served by a range of tortini (pastry-less pies); pasta-hounds can enjoy such treats as tagliolini with anchovies, pine nuts and pecorino cheese.

Pastificio Guerra

This tiny purveyor of fresh pasta has gained fame as a cheap and cheerful lunch destination in one of the priciest parts of the city. There are no frills here, just a choice of two pasta dishes (which change daily) served on plastic plates to eat at the counter or take away. But at €4 a portion, which includes water and a cup of house wine, you would be hard pressed to find a better deal in the area.

Where to eat and drink in Florence by Marco Secchi

My favourite places where to eat in Florence by Michela Goretti

 

I' Girone De' Ghiotti €

Crush delicious, stuffed with typical Tuscan ingredients; despite being small, the restaurant offers seats, not many, but there are! Unbeatable prices for quality:

2 crushed (that are enough and advance) 1 bottled beer, 1/2 water € 14.50 ... less than in a very bad fast-food, and we are

in the historical center!

Via dei Cimatori 23/Rosso, 50122, Firenze, Italia   +39 055 532 6053


Senz’altro Bistrot  € 

Young and smart guys! They take care of every dish in the smallest details; curious combinations and refined taste.

Small, intimate and welcoming place. Located in a long street full of life and passage, easy to reach both by public transport and private transport (there is a nice parking at the beginning of the pedestrian zone).

Highly recommended.

-Borgo la Croce 21/r, 50121, Firenze, Italia      +39 055 24382


Ditta Artigianale €

Ditta Artigianale selects individual origins from all over the world,

traveling to the constant search for the best products

and ethical to bring to the customer,

enhancing every single passage of the grain journey,

from the plantation to the cup.

Via dei Neri 32r Firenze Italia  +30 055 274 1541


Mercato Centrale €€

For those who love street food will find an oasis gurmet in the heart of the city.

12 shops of some of the best Italian artisans, Tuscan restaurant, Chianti wine shop, pizza osai, street food

Primo piano Piazza del Mercato Centrale Firenze Italia   055 2399798


Gurdulu  €€€

A bit like a Londoner and a Parisian, Gurdulù is all Florentine: in the neighborhood of Santo Spirito comes a unique but common place, familiar but unusual, real and at the same time fantastic. Pure State, Tradition and Territory, Today at the Market, Classic Snacks, Desserts and Seasons: this is the menu that offers the restaurant and that periodically changes respecting the seasons.

Via delle Caldaie 12 R Firenze Italia   +39 055 282223


Ora D’Aria  €€€

The environment is essential and elegant, with attention to details that express a delicate and never ostentatious luxury Ora d'Aria perfectly reflects the philosophy of the chef who promotes a kitchen made of quality and transparency, the same that are found in every place of the restaurant, starting from the kitchen, overlooking the street and the hall, that of the local and who he deals with it defines the essence.

Via dei Georgofili 11R - 50122 Firenze Italia    +39 055 200 16 99


Winter Garden by Caino €€€

In an elegant setting of a sophisticated winter garden nested in The St. Regis Florence, the collaboration in the kitchen between epicurean masters Chef Gentian Shehi and 2 Michelin Star Chef Valeria Piccini sets new heights of a refined restaurant experience in Florence, bringing together the culinary tradition of Tuscany and bespoke service in the heart of Florence

Piazza Ognissanti, 1 Florence  Italia  +3905527163770


La bottega del buon Caffè €€€

Authenticity and honesty are at the heart of each dish we create at La Bottega del Buon Caffè .

Respecting our Florentine Location the seasonal menus are designed to reflect the region's unique gastronomic heritage and vibrant culinary culture. Artisan butchers supply the kitchen with exceptional cuts of locally-reared meats whilst the very freshest fish are delivered from the Mediterranean.

Borgo Santo Pietro in the CityLa Bottega del Buon CaffèIl LoungeL'Enoteca
Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r - Firenze, Italy • Tel. +39 055 55 35 677

Relais Borgo Santo Pietro Srl • P.IVA/CF: 0144 0680 526



Il Palagio  €€€

In an original and authentic atmosphere, elegant but not strictly formal, Il Palagio offers a culinary experience and one of the most unforgettable settings in Florence.

Loved by both tourists and locals alike, Il Palagio is one of the most popular restaurants in Florence for its traditional Italian and regional cuisine enriched by a touch of modernity.

Borgo Pinti, 99, 50121 Firenze  +39 (055) 2626 450


Enoteca Pinchiorri  €€€€

The kitchen is a laboratory where ideas take shape, the best ingredients are combined in the search for innovation but always in the name of local and territorial tradition.

Via Ghibellina, 87,Firenze FI  055 242757

Where to Eat and Drink in Bologna by Marco Secchi

This is the home of fresh pasta, the famous mortadella sausage, and nearby there are the finest producers of Parma ham, Parmigiano cheese, balsamic vinegar. There is no better place in Italy for eating out, and it really is almost impossible here to pay a lot of money for a meal.

 

 Pizzeria Ristorante La Brace,
It can come as a surprise but when the Bolognesi want to go out to eat fish they will invariably choose a pizzeria, first because they are run by supposed seafood experts from Napoli or Sicily, and secondly because they are invariably less expensive than a formal restaurant or trattoria. The Brace is a classic example, cheap and cheerful, with a fun decoration of famous footballers' shirts hanging from the ceiling, and a menu that ranges from Pizza Positano, with cherry tomatoes and mozzarella, to grilled squid and prawns, sea bass and tuna. A set menu is priced at €12, and pizzas cost from €4-€8.
• 15 Via San Vitale, +39 51 235656, ristorantelabrace.eu

Osteria Dell'Orsa
 
Whether you turn up at lunchtime or for dinner, the atmosphere is always buzzing at "The Bear", a Bologna locale that has transformed over the years from an alternative punk hangout into a traditional osteria that also has a shop next door selling their handmade pasta to take away. Great place to meet the locals as everyone sits down at communal tables, and at night you might find yourself listening to a live band, a poetry reading or heated philosophical discussions. Pasta of the day could be artichoke lasagna or gnocchi with courgettes, priced at €6.
• 1 Via Mentana, +39 51 231576, osteriadellorsa.com

 

Da Me
Externally, this is certainly not the most prepossessing, but do not let this put you off
Assuredly you will also have had to book, probably several days in advance, for it is well known and respected by the locals
The rather dog-eared menu is short, and I'ld guess only seasonally changed. Similarly, the decor is pretty functional as is often the case throughout Europe with family-owned/run restaurants (this one since 1937), concentration being paid to the main event = the quality of the food
Via San Felice 50/A, 40122 Bologna, Italy
+39 051 555486

Trattoria Anna Maria
The genial Signora Anna Maria looks and acts like the archetypal Italian mamma and has been serving the finest tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth, €14) in Bologna for 26 years now in her marvellous trattoria. Although prices may be a bit above average – €28 for two hearty courses – you are assured of an unforgettable meal, not just for the delicious food, but the lovingly kitsch interiors, the walls decorated with black and white photos of Mastroianni and Sophia Loren, the ancient waiters in their trademark red waistcoats weaving between the tables, precariously balancing plates piled high with pasta.
• 17 Via delle Belle Arte, +39 51 266894, trattoriannamaria.com

Le Stanze
Le Stanze is right in the heart of the student quarter of the city, and is the one spot that stands out among the dozens of lively bars and cafes that line the surrounding streets. You walk into a stunning lounge that was originally the 16th-century private chapel of the Palazzo Bentivoglio, and the high ceiling is painted with beautiful pastel frescoes. While Le Stanze is a restaurant too (mains around €15), the best deal is to turn up between 6pm and 9pm for the evening aperitivo. The long bar is lined with appetising plates of pasta, grilled vegetables, bite-sized pizzette, cheeses and prosciutto, and all you pay is an extra €1 added on to the price of drinks, which range from €6 for a glass of wine to €9 for a cocktail.
• 1 Via Borgo di San Pietro, +39 51 228767

Osteria Marsalino
Italians are finally waking up to the effect of carbon footprints on what they eat, and every Saturday morning there is an organic market here organised by local farmers. In the food business the term kilometro zero has been coined, and several restaurants highlight regional products on their menu. One of the leaders is this cool, modern osteria, where you can also find lighter, more creative dishes on the menu such as risotto alle fragole (strawberry risotto), a "kmzero" caprese salad or a bowl of farro – spelt with courgettes, baby shrimps and soy sauce.
• €6 for a pasta or salad, €7 for a main course, 13 Via Marsalino, +39 51 238675, marsalino.it

 

La Baita Formaggi
A tour of Bologna's ancient market that crisscrosses the backstreets behind the landmark Piazza Maggiore is a must for anyone interested in food, from the bustling fruit and vegetable stalls to salumerie where the seductive aroma of prosciutto and mortadella wafts out on to the street. La Baita is the most renowned cheese shop, and at lunchtime shoppers can stop off for a proper meal of affettati (cold cuts), not just fabulous cheeses like a unique black Parmigiano or succulent fresh ricotta, but also frittata di verdura, a light omelette, smoked ham and tasty salami, priced from €10-€15 depending how carried away you get when ordering.
• 3 Via Pescherie Vecchie, +39 51 223940

Caffè Zamboni

This is one of Italy's most important university cities, and with more than 80,000 students living here there is a huge choice for budget eating and drinking. The evening aperitivo is a ritual rendezvous, replacing dinner, as each bar vies to offer more to eat in the complimentary buffet. Caffè Zamboni is the hottest spot right now and with the panoply of dishes displayed as you walk by it is no surprise. For €7 the preferred drink is an Aperol Spritz, and while vegetarians will be pleased to see grilled aubergines and zucchini, most people head straight for the huge chunks of mortadella.
• 6 Via Zamboni, +39 51 273102, caffezamboni.it

E' Cucina Bologna
Cesare Marretti is one of the hottest young chefs in Italy, a regular on the Italian version of Ready Steady Cook and a disciple of Jamie Oliver.
His restaurant on Via Senzanome is a funky, design bistro where the light, creative cuisine revolves around fresh, seasonal produce. The three course set menus at lunch range from €10-€20 and include mineral water, a glass of wine and coffee, while main courses at night are priced at €8. A great place to come for healthy salads or grilled fish after too much tortellini and tagliatelle.
• 42 Via Senzanome, +39 51 2750069, cesaremarretti.com

Biagi
The sign outside Biagi says "osteria" but this is actually an elegant restaurant which is definitely the place to reserve for a romantic gourmet dinner that still won't break the bank. While the menu features classic casalinga dishes, lovingly prepared in the kitchen by Signora Dina, mother of the friendly owner and maître d', Fabio, there are also surprising recipes like a galantina di cappone (stuffed chicken) or a warm panzanella salad of beans and plump tomatoes. Excellent choice of local wines, and this is the place to be surprised by the quality of a sparkling red lambrusco. Dinner with wine costs €30-€35.
• 9 Via Savenella, +39 51 4070049, ristorantebiagi.it

 

 

RESTAURANTS
Trattoria Anna Maria, Via delle Belle Arti, 17/A
A few doors down from this warm trattoria, you’ll find women rolling out thin sheets of dough, preparing pasta for Anna Maria’s evening meal. While surrounded by framed photos and autographs of celebrities that cover the walls, tuck into Bolognese classics like tortelloni burro e salvia (butter and sage) and translucent strands of tagliatelle al ragù. The eponymous proprietress buzzes from table to table, checking in on the regulars and welcoming new faces.

Osteria Broccaindosso, Via Broccaindosso, 7/A
This rustic, candlelit spot is best enjoyed on an empty stomach; skip the aperitivo before an evening here. Share plates of antipasti, sample several pastas, and do not miss dessert, an unending, family-style array of sweets, including piles of naked profiteroles ready to be dipped in warm chocolate, and bowls of fresh fruit and fluffy mascarpone to spoon on dense chocolate cake.

Da Maro, Via Broccaindosso, 71
For a brief respite from Bologna’s meat-centric dishes, head to seafood restaurant Da Maro. Run by a Sicilian family, specialties include bright crudo and pasta con le sarde (with sardines) topped with a liberal sprinkling of bottarga, but they also make a variety of other handmade pastas with fish fresh from the local market.

Nicola’s Pizzeria, Piazza San Martino, 9
A wood-fired oven churns out popular, lightly charred pies here, from the usual suspects to more interesting but no less delicious combos like tonno e cipolla (tuna and onion) or the zucchini and egg. Incredibly thin crusts make it easy to polish off one alone.

Ristorante Alice, Via Massimo D'Azeglio, 65/b
Outfitted with plain white tablecloths and simple decor, Alice serves up quintessential Bolognese fare to a mostly local crowd. Let your waiter guide you, but be sure to start with the excellent antipasti, including cured meats, jagged crumbles of Pecorino with balsamic, ceci (chickpeas), and thinly sliced marinated eggplant.

Trattoria Meloncello, Via Saragozza, 240/A
Burn off some newly acquired calories with a brisk walk up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, perched on a hill overlooking Bologna, and stop into this nearly 100-year-old eatery for a well-deserved lunch afterward. The tortellini in brodo is especially satisfying, with tender dumplings in a simple, perfectly seasoned broth.


SWEETS
La Sorbetteria Castiglione, Via Castiglione, 44 d/e
There are plenty of gelato shops closer to the center of town, but La Sorbetteria Castiglione is worth the wander down a quiet, portico-lined street. Try Michelangelo, an almond gelato peppered with almond praline bits, or Dolce Emma, a ricotta base with honey-caramelized figs.

Il Gelatauro, Via San Vitale, 98
When this tiny shop opened in 1998, it was among the first in Bologna to make gelato with organic ingredients. It offers samples and a host of seasonal and classic flavors (the stracciatella and chocolate-orange are popular scoops) as well as fresh fruit sorbetti; it’s easy to find something to love here.

Majani, Via Dè Carbonesi, 5
Stop into this 200-year-old chocolate-maker’s shop for beautifully wrapped packages of chocolates to take home. It first created the renowned Cremino Fiat in 1911 to celebrate the car company’s Tipo 4 model, and more than a century later the squares of smooth chocolate with hazelnut and almond cream are still a best-seller. A box of cream-filled chocolate tortellini is another perfectly apropos souvenir.

WORTH to try "Cremeria Funivia" in Piazza Cavour


DRINKS
Le Stanze, Via del Borgo di San Pietro, 1
Once the private realms of a wealthy family, Le Stanze is now a lively bar and restaurant with one of the best aperitivo spreads in town. Order an Aperol Spritz and snack on roasted vegetables, pizzette, and savory salads under lofty vaulted ceilings and walls showcasing original frescoes painted in the early 18th century. Be warned, though: It may be tough to return to your hometown bar after a visit here.

Baladin Bologna, Via Clavature, 12
While Italy is historically a country of wine drinkers, its craft beer movement has gained ground of late with a host of breweries making inventive, world-class beers. In the basement of the recently reopened Mercato di Mezzo in the Quadrilatero, you’ll find an outpost of the original Italian craft brewer Teo Musso’s beloved beer bar. Sample from offerings, both on tap and in bottles, including Nora, the unique, Egyptian-inspired spiced brew made with myrrh and ginger.


MARKETS
Mercato delle Erbe, Via Ugo Bassi, 25
In this historic indoor market, shop from stalls of fresh produce, meat, fish, cheese, and other Italian provisions next to locals stocking up on ingredients for tonight’s evening meal. If your surroundings inspire hunger, there are plenty of places to pick up a panino stuffed with prosciutto and arugula or pizza al taglio (by the slice) from trays of vegetable and meat-topped square pies, as well as cozy spots to sit and enjoy them.

Quadrilatero
This small, rectangular grid of streets and cobblestone walkways off the Piazza Maggiore is home to a host of markets, many that spill out onto the street and offer a bounty of meats, cheese, fish, fruits, and vegetables that represent the staples of Bolognese cuisine. Paolo Atti & Figli, Tamburini, and La Baita are among the best.

Paolo Atti & Figli, Via Caprarie, 7
Founded in 1880 and still run by the same family, this celebrated shop sells both freshly made and dried pastas—the latter packaged in lovely boxes perfect for gifting—as well as a bounty of breads, pastries, and cakes. They include a traditional panettone, and perfectly crisp, powdered sugar–dusted sfrappole that permeate the handsome wood-paneled space.

Tamburini, Via Caprarie, 1
In this family-run shop dating back to the 1930s, prosciutto hangs heavily from the ceiling, while tire-size wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano are displayed beside myriad other cured meats, cheeses, and handmade pastas. There are also prepared foods and a small restaurant and wine bar. On a sunny day, opt for a table outside and snack on an epic cheese and meat plate paired with a glass of red.

La Baita Formaggi, Via Pescherie Vecchie, 3/A
A cheese lover’s mecca, find freshly made ricotta and mozzarella, burrata, and practically every other divine Italian cheese that comes to mind, as well as cured meats, marinated vegetables, olives, and salads to take away or enjoy at a table right in the shop.

Worth to try Casa Minghetti in Piazza Minghetti